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Infiniti

INFINITI BOSE AND NON BOSE

AUX added

Head Unit			Removal Tips
	2003 Infinit G35 Coupe:  AC controls to stop responding and the display for the radio goes out but both stereo and AC still work.	We would just need the approx. 6 inch square metal stereo box that is mount to the back of the faceplate (pictured here). Be careful to gently unplug the small ribbon cable between the two sections.	The first 8 minutes of this video shows removal -  after that is aftermarket installation. http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/projects/infiniti_g35 _radio_replacement_procedure.htm
	Sound cuts off & on, display stays on but no sound (in stereo) Radio all of the sudden is dead (in stereo) CD player skips, or "ERR" & won't play (in stereo) Static or speakers cut out when turn volume control (in stereo)	We would just need the stereo head unit sent in

• Sound cuts off & on, display stays on but no sound (in stereo)
• Radio all of the sudden is dead (in stereo)
• CD player skips, or "ERR" & won't play (in stereo)
• Static or speakers cut out when turn volume control (in stereo)
• Temperature related problems, after warms up or cools down. (E-mail us with specifics)
• Other problems (E-Mail us with specifics)
  Emails and info on the Bose speakers

 Bose Speakers

When we refer to the amps, that is the 3x4” circuit board that is attached by the speaker. 

The amps are hooked to the speakers, one in each front door and one on each of the rear speakers. You don't have to take the rear speakers out if you or your mechanic wants to almost lie in the trunk to disconnect the amp from bottom side. We only need the bottom round plastic piece off rear speaker, with the amp inside it. The fronts can be sent as a big housing that holds the speaker with amp inside.  Please be sure to notice the important note if sending whole rear speaker cone with assembly (how to protect the cone). These speakers sound awesome once rebuilt.

Shipping speakers: (IMPORTANT)
Speakers are best shipped by taking a piece of cardboard and cutting it round so it can be taped across the top part. The cardboard then will protect the paper cone while being packaged for shipment.

Front door speakers
The door panels have to come loose at the bottom in order to unbolt the speakers from underneath. Do not try to pull the speaker grill off, it will only break it. The armrest will slide straight back towards rear of car and come off, we use a regular screwdriver to push it back from the split below the handle that you pull to close door from inside. Then you see 3 large Phillips screws, take them out. We also remove the plastic part that goes around the inside door latch handle. It pops off but is not real easy, we use a regular screwdriver and gently pry around it's edges until it comes off. Grab the bottom of the door panel and it unsnaps, laying down with a light, you can see the 4 bolts that hold speaker in.

In the fronts, the amp is mounted (just plugs in) inside the enclosure. The enclosure is the black plastic box that is mounted in the door. The enclosure has a hole in it where the speaker (the actual cone) is screwed to it. Once out of the door, you’ll see that it has screws around the outer edge that allow it to separate in half, giving you access to the amp. 

Replacing the amps when we sell you new or rebuilt ones. Here are the steps to changing out the amp. You remove the enclosure from the door, open it up, unscrew and unplug the amp, plug in and mount the replacement amp, screw enclosure back together and mount it back in the door. The enclosure does have a connector on it allowing you to remove and unplug it from the car.

Rear speakers
The Q-45 that we do here, we are able to remove the rear amps by removing the bottom portion of the speaker from the trunk. Remove the back liner of the trunk (about 6 plastic screws) then unplug the speaker connector. The bottom portion is held on with 1/4 inch bolts (4 of them) then the 2 wires pull off - carefully and that piece can be sent in only - for the rears. If you don't understand why I'm suggesting all 4 please ask why you should.

1993-1995 Infiniti J30 Speakers 

Driver door speaker enclosure removal: (Passenger side is very similar)

There are 4 screws along the bottom of the panel. Also, the wood trim that holds the window control panel in will come out. Start at the top with a flat screwdriver and there is a clip under there that has to be forced in and the panel pulls up and out, a big screw behind there. Also the small section that holds the mirror control will pop out and there is a screw behind there too. The plastic insert cavity of the inside door latch will come out and expose another screw. The silver door handle doesn't have to move but the frame rim that goes around it does come out. There is a catch on the outside middle towards the back -O and two more towards it's front on top O> (simple drawings but you can get the idea) those catches are kind of deep and pried on from outside the ring to release it. That's 3 hidden screws and the bottom section of the door will now unsnap so you can swing in out and get to the 4 screws that hold in the big black plastic Bose speaker assembly.

Stereo Removing Instructions

1993-1997 Infiniti J30

Start by removing the piece that goes around the shifter, it pry's up from the rear of the car side, there are little feet along the front edge that will break if pried from the front, they slide out from under the front edge. The trim piece that goes around the radio has 2 screws on bottom, then it snaps from top where it goes around A/C controls. This can be a tough snap and using a flat edge screwdriver - be careful not to break the wood grain. Maybe use a cloth over the end of the tool to avoid scratching and just try to pry but not too hard. The wood grain is tough, but might break if abused. We haven't ever seen it break. Once that is out of the way, you can see the 4 screws that hold the bracket that holds the radio and the A/C controls. Remove them and unplug all hooked so you can hold it all in your hands and carry the assembly from the car. Now you need to know that the 4 screws that hold the radio inside this bracket are tighter then you will ever imagine. You need to make a decision if you have the tools to remove them or do you just want to remove the A/C controls and leave the bracket hooked to the radio and send it in that way (which is fine to do). We use a special tool to remove the screws that are so tight, they easily strip out if not a big Phillips and pounding on them easily bents the radio housing. Consider leaving the bracket on the radio so no damage is done to anything but you will want to leave the AC control and hazard switch plugged in the vehicle or the blinkers won't work and you might want climate control.

Removing the AC control from the bracket: The round knob will pull off, then the controllers front plate will come off by slightly unhooking each tab from around the edges until it comes off. The hazard switch will now come out to the front. To get it out, from the backside of the switch, use a regular screwdriver and release the catch on the top and push the hazard switch out. Now you can get to the 2 screws on each side of the controller to remove it from the bracket. You can mark the metal square plate on the left side (that was behind the switch) by using a sharp object like the screwdriver and making a scratch across both plates, then you will be able to know your putting it back together the exact way you took it apart.

1996-1999 Infiniti I30 Stereo Removal

The square portion of the dash that is above the stereo and holds the vents and the hazard and rear defrost switches will snap out when gently pried on with a regular screwdriver around it's edges. Be gentle and move slow, being careful not to smash too hard against the edge of the dash board creating crease marks. Once that is out, it will reveal the 2 gold bolts on the top that hold the bracket holding the AC controls and the stereo. It is also bolted at the bottom and the following explains how to get to the 2 bottom bolts. The plastic piece that goes around the shifter will pop up, also when gently pried on with a regular screwdriver around it's edges. Once it is up, you can squeeze and unplug the lighter plug. Then move the ashtray, it is held in with one screw on it's left side and is snapped on the right side in the rear. You can not see the RR snap on the ashtray but once the screw is removed you can pop it straight out by again gently using a regular screwdriver to pry from the right side. Most of the time, that RR snap will fall off when it unsnaps. You can find the little metal clip and reattach it to the tab on the back of the ashtray or many times we have not found it and it causes no problems to not use it but I would wait until the stereo is being put back in before putting it back on and snapping it back in there because it will just come off again when the ashtray has to be taken back out for reinstall of stereo. Now you can see the bottom 2 bolts and once removed will allow the whole tall assembly holding the stereo and AC controls to come out once the wiring has been disconnected from back side. The plugs that go into the stereo can be a little tricky to unplug so what we use is a regular screwdriver to press down on the connectors latch, releasing it and push it out or pull gently of the harness to unplug it. Do that for both connectors beside each other. There is a plastic hose on most of these, that is easiest to unplug if you follow it for about 15 inches from the stereo and you will see where it comes apart. It is easiest to unplug all so you can have this assembly out of the car to remove the stereo. Many times we just remove the screws from one of the sides of the bracket holding stereo and AC controls, which allows you to slide the stereo out.

Emails and info on the Bose speakers

1988-1994 Bose speaker systems

 Not only do we fix these kinds of problem, I think it is a mistake to do anything else but fix the Bose system. The ones we've done sound great and the customers are very pleased with the results. You will be impressed with what you've done when they're back in.

I know exactly the whining you hear and the pop. Basically, they are to the point that they will be self destructing if continue to turn them on. But, don't be fooled by that statement, they are repairable and will be fine. Many times we have repaired the scratchy volume control, most places will spray cleaner in it and it will seem repaired for a while but we are going to fix it right, so it stays fixed.

The only thing you need to do is get the speakers and radio out of the car to send in. There are tips on the Infiniti Page of our website for you or your mechanic. We don't take rear speakers out. We just remove amp circuit board from box on side of speaker from inside the trunk; we just need the boards, The fronts ship as an assembly.

True about the 1-Ohm speakers. I personally think it is a mistake to put another amp and speakers in it.

The young man that left here a few weeks ago after we had rebuilt his Bose amps had a smile on his face and he said "you weren't kidding when you said people are amazed at how good it will sound", he was glad.

It will be loud and clear with plenty of bass once rebuilt. We offer a great way to fix one or all 4, you will need all 4 rebuilt since 1989 model year. If you can have them taken out or take them out yourself and send them in we can do all of them for what the dealer will charge to do just one.

Tape cardboard across the speaker cone if not protected when shipping them. Sending just amp PCB's is OK too if they unplug, some of the 89's are hardwired to the speaker (or really just hardwired to the harness) some of them have a connector to the PCB amp board which makes it quicker. That info is in regard to the rears. Be sure to look over the Infiniti Page on the website for removing tips.

Other than the amps going bad, the other thing we fix quite well and often is static in the volume control when turning it. If that is a problem, it will be amplified by the great working amps once they've been rebuilt. So, the stereo would have to be looked at and we could check out CD too for possible fix.

>Based on your description, the 4 speaker amps would need to be rebuilt. We do it all the time when the Bose speakers are 10 years old and they will sound great when done. Most people are amazed once rebuilt.

I'm going to assume it is the Bose system and all info here is based on that assumption.
The 4 speaker/amps in this car need rebuilt for it to sound awesome like the Bose did (when it was new) You should only have to turn the volume 1/4 for it to be loud. You can certainly rebuild just the passenger door speaker but they all need it and the rebuilt one will be the loudest after rebuilt. That fixes the whining and cutting out. It doesn't eliminate the possibility of the radio needing work but that is the main problem. This system is not well adaptable to others. You can't just put another stereo in, if you do, you'll need to rewire directly to new speakers. We rebuild them all the time and customers are amazed (when all 4 done).

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  Additional Bose info in general

Feedback from Infiniti Owners

Feedback from Previous Bose Customers

Additional feedback from various customers